Dudhsagar Falls – Rain Trek on Railway Track!

Dudhsagar Falls – We were there in August in monsoon in 2013. We thoroughly enjoyed it. The falls is at its best in monsoon. Go now. (Incidentally this is the same waterfalls shown in Shah Rukh Khan’s blockbuster – Chennai Express)

Latest Update – The railway track trek to Dudhsagar Falls is banned by Railway Police till further notice. 

Who doesn’t remember this lovely rhyme?

Rain, rain, go away,

Come again another day.

Little Arthur wants to play;

We did not want the rain to go away. We wanted to trek in the rain. Trek to Dudhsagar falls in monsoon was always on our bucket list. Honestly speaking, trekking in rain is no fun. Then you don’t have a choice if you want to visit the falls when rain is pouring in the mountains and the falls is at its magnificent best. We decided to do it.

Our initial plan was to drive up to Hubli, stay overnight, drive next morning to Castle Rock – the start point of the trek – and return back to Hubli by evening after trekking to waterfalls. However this time around, we decided to go by train. Getting reservations at last-minute on Indian trains is always difficult. We wanted to try our luck through Indian Railways (IRCTC) website. You know how notorious IRCTC is. Browsing early in the morning, we were lucky and could get the tickets in Tatkal after couple of tries. The last time we travelled in a train was way back in 2000.

Trains are always fun if you don’t mind smelly platforms, not so clean coaches……….and of course the toilets. We booked in three-tier AC coach. Chennai – Vasco express which passes through Bangalore is not an “Important or Star” train for railways. It is more of a fast passenger than an express. Thus, the coach was not new, one which would possibly be discarded in couple years. As we entered our coupe and sat on the seat, we were greeted by the tiny little creatures commonly known as cockroach! Thankfully they were small ones moving around. We smashed few, shoved the luggage under the seat and settle down when a couple walks in. Our co-passengers in the same coupe.

The best part of a train journey in India is human watching. It is an amazing world out there. Our co-passengers – a middle-aged jeweller and his wife from Bangalore – were going to Goa for a “relaxed” holiday. For our man, Goa was the ultimate destination. He goes there every year to just chill out. He does not want to go anywhere else and Goa is the full and final destination for him. But the couple were interesting and well-informed. They were surprised to hear that we were travelling in the train to get down at Castle Rock for a trek to Dudhsagar falls. They had seen the waterfalls many times on their journeys to Goa but had never heard of people trekking to waterfalls. The man was curious.

“How many KMs is the trek”

“14 Kms”

“Are you sure you guys want to do this in rain”

“Yes, we have come prepared.” I show him our trekking shoes, rain cape, backpack etc.

“How long will it take to cover the distance?”

“Five hours”

“You guys are going to walk for five hours in this rain???”

“Yes, that is the fun”

He shakes his head. The wife gives a blank look.After the checking of tickets by TC, we bid good night. Not before checking for couple of cockroaches and smashing them.

Poorna normally gets up early while travelling in train. It was 6AM and the train had just arrived in Hubli. A boy was moving around briskly on the platform selling hot tea. Behind him was another selling news paper. A chai in one hand and news paper in the other is always good day to start. After a halt of half hour, the train starts and the journey from now till Castle Rock is lovely. Poorna had done this train journey many times while being posted in Goa in his earlier avatar in Army. He always looked forward to this stretch when he used to stand near the door and enjoy the beautiful vistas. Today was no different. The rains had turned the landscape into lively green. The streams were full and flowing. Fortunately it was not raining. Cool breeze was caressing our face as we stood near the door holding onto the rails.  We wished the weather would hold good till we completed the trek.

(Please click on the pictures to see them in enlarged size)

At Londa, we get the pre-ordered breakfast – order taken by steward on the previous night – of Idli and Vada which was not bad. The breakfast was to be only meal for us till we reached our hotel in Goa.

Walking on the track in rain is tricky. It is not difficult. In the rain, the sleepers become slippery and one has to be careful while moving. It is not unsafe either. Yes, when the train comes, you have to get out of the track. When you do so, you have to be careful and watch out. All along the trail there is enough place for one to stay out of the track safely when the train comes. It is easy to notice when it comes. The drivers are aware that there will be people walking on the track – especially on weekends – and will always sound the horn. Moreover, the trains do not run fast on this ghat section which provides ample time to get off to safety when you hear the train’s horn. When you are on a bridge, do not rush if you don’t find a good place to come off the track. Walk past the bridge briskly but safely and then move to safe place. Do not wait to come off the track till the train approaches you. You will hear the sound of the train well in advance as sound reverberates in the Hills. Wait patiently till the train cross over.

You are not in a race here. Walk relaxed and enjoy the surroundings. This is not a busy route and there are very few trains including odd engine combos and freight trains. Yes, you need to watch the shit on the track. But that should not be too much to worry about. In monsoon when it is raining, it gets washed away. Safety is important and not stepping on shit.